This glass fusing tutorial, or actually a test, is about melting dichroic glass down through a stainless mesh onto a base of black. The idea is to create a slab that can be cut up for cabochons.
I intend to use this method to create slabs for grinding and shaping on my diamond wheels, as well as just refusing into ovals etc.
The video tutorial includes the design, materials, and equipment information, as well as the cutting of glass, firing, and slumping.
Project Information
In the YouTube video, you will find links to related videos, a chapter list with time stamps, and links to more resources.
Don’t forget, the glass I use is Bullseye 90 COE. I use Thinfire fiber paper on the shelf, but when fire polishing on my shelf, and slumping in moulds, I spray with boron nitride mould release.
This project will require you to have some way to create the pattern bar via melting down through a stainless steel mesh, or maybe trying a ceramic pot with holes in it.
I’m using a single piece of 3mm ripple dichroic glass in this video but you could use multiple small pieces, and any dichroic you like.
Of course, you could also use any colour glass for the base.
The full fuse had to go higher than planned, mainly because of the small amount of glass and some of it being hubg up on the mesh. Probably a little more clear on top would have been good.
I suspected that some of the dichro would float to the top of the glass, but hoped most would stay embedded in the glass..
In the video you can see the result. I’m, happy with the way it turned out and think some lovely cabochons can be made from the slab.
If you have any questions please ask in the comments section on YouTube.
Full Fuse Firing Schedule
Remember, these schedules are for COE 90.
- #1 – 222 C (432 F) up to 535 C (995 F), no hold
- #2 – 333 C (632 F) up to 860 C (1580 F), hold 20 minutes
- #3 – Full down to 482 C (900 F), hold 60 minutes
- #4 – 65 C (149 F) down to 425 C (797 F), no hold
- #5 – 132 C (270 F) down to 370 C (700 F), no hold